Historic Alleys

Manuel Kotta, Ayacotta, and Cranganore Fort

Contact with Malabar, and later Goa, was established by Portuguese armadas sailing to western coastal ports such as Calicut, Cochin, and Goa. The ships sailed along the west coast with the mawsim, or monsoon winds, and took shelter in these ports from May to September, when the winds were strongest. Interestingly, this was the period when the eastern coast was busy with ships plying the Southeast Asian ports and countries. As the West Coast opened for business between November and March, the seas bustled and churned with boats, dhows, and other vessels filled with sailors, traders, and supercargo dignitaries. Vasco da Gama was the first to complete the voyage between Lisbon and Calicut in 1498 and learned of the vagaries of the winds, or the lack thereof, as his ships arrived late and departed late, facing numerous problems.

Although there are mentions of primitive earthen forts built with mud and stone, modern stone-and-mortar forts date back to Portuguese efforts in the early 16th century. They were mainly constructed for coastal defenses and to secure their factories (storage warehouses), and later to prevent unauthorized trading ships from operating. After issues with Arab traders in Calicut, which led to the destruction of their first factory, the Portuguese settled in Cochin and built factories and fortified them. Forts and factories were necessary because spices were harvested, dried, and stored well before ships arrived. This delay made the establishment of secure storage facilities essential. The factories were protected by heavy weaponry and forts located at strategic points around Malabar, including Cochin, Calicut, Cannanore, Quilon, and Cranganore.

Cleverly manipulating the situation and the dissent among rival factions of the Cochin royal families, the Portuguese installed their favored candidate after placing a golden crown and an annuity (copa) of 640 crusados on him. An attack by the Zamorin on Cochin presented Francisco de Albuquerque with a perfect opportunity to persuade the King of the need to build a fortress to defend the Portuguese there. In 1503, a timber fortress was built, since stone was not allowed for any structures other than temples. As a result, the first Portuguese fortification in India was Fort Manuel (locally known as Emmanuel or Immanuel), near Fort Cochin, in 1503. It was sizable, with a strong surrounding wall and about 300 soldiers. Originally made of wood, it also housed the Portuguese administrative offices.

Manuelkotta – Manuel fort

The Viceroy asked the new King for permission to build a strong fortress, which he seemed to do reluctantly. After its construction, the fortress was named Fort Manuel (after the Portuguese King Manuel) or Manuel Kotta in the local language. The fort was renovated and strengthened with stones and laterite in 1505-06 by Viceroy Francisco de Almeida. According to contemporary chroniclers, both Francisco de Albuquerque and Afonso de Albuquerque oversaw the construction or renovation of this fort.

KM Panikkar wryly notes - The Rajah supplied the necessary material and the foundations for the fort were laid on the 27th of September 1503. The structure was in the form of a square of 183 yards surrounded by a deep moat. The Rajah himself came and encouraged the builders, little knowing that he was loading the pistol against his own breast.

The fortress was expanded in 1512 under the leadership of Afonso de Albuquerque, following directives from Lisbon. It was recognized as the main factory among the Portuguese commercial establishments on the Malabar coast, where ships were built, repaired, and coins were minted. Adjacent to the factory and fortress, there was a hospital and a House of Mercy (Casa de Santa Misericordia), near the King's customs house in Cochin, while the municipality was known as Santa Cruz. A church dedicated to Saint Bartholomew was built within the fort (now the St. Francis Church). Local historians report that tunnels were added from various parts of the fort to facilitate quick escapes during an attack. Little remains of the original Manuel fort (also called Fort St. James at one time), except for a few structures. Much of it was destroyed when the Dutch attacked and defeated the Portuguese. The Dutch built bungalows on each of the bastions and gave them Dutch names such as Stromberg, Holland, Zeeland, and Gelderland. By the time the British arrived, almost nothing of the fort was left. Parts of the structure were found underwater or are part of newer buildings.

The part of Lower Cochin (Cochim de baixo) administered by Portugal, also known as Santa Cruz, was partly surrounded by a wall with several bastions in the early seventeenth century. Today, it is known as Fort Cochin. Cochin had a good deep-water harbor, but sandbanks or sandbars blocked the entrance. As a result, larger vessels had to anchor farther out to sea, making them vulnerable to enemy attacks. As Dutch naval power grew and threatened Portuguese ports, trade was shifted from Cochin after the first decade of the 17th century to Goa and Bombay. An interesting story about the fort's defense against a Zamorin attack by Pacheco in the 16th century will be presented in a forthcoming article.

The allied forts of Kochi or Cochin were located at Kottapuram and Pallipuram. The Pallipuram (Ayakotta) fort was constructed around 1503 and had a hexagonal shape. It is the oldest surviving European fort in Kerala and served more as a watchtower than a large fortification, while the Kottapuram (Cranganore) fort on the opposite bank was more substantial.

Pallipuram, Palliport or Ayakotta fort

Although the inscriptions on the remains of this fort/tower state that it was built well after 1503, the structure was constructed after Emmanuel, to guard the entrance to the Periyar river mouth (left bank) from the northern tip of Vypin Island. Correa provides a date of 1507 and notes that it was garrisoned by 20 men. Strangely, he mentions it was octagonal, but the remains are clearly hexagonal and had many slots for mounting cannons. While Emmanuel Fort is a wall structure, this is more of a tower and can thus be considered the first complete European building in India. When I visited it last week, it was deserted, and a couple of officials or caretakers waved me to go look at the ruins myself and had nothing else to say. It has been commonly called Palliport, Pallippuram, Aycotta, or Manappad, while locals refer to it as Azhikotta (seaside fort), Aycotta, Aikottai, or Ayakottai.

The significance of this fort lay in its role as an excellent forward base for attacking Cochin. Some writers even called it a great fortress. TAS #1 provides a descriptive essay on the fort, its construction and design, along with a picture from 1910. Comparing this with the present-day image, you can see the reconstruction completed by the Travancore authorities. Interestingly, the island of Vypin was divided into three parts and was owned by Cochin, Travancore, and the British in the early days. The fort was located in the Travancore portion and was maintained by the Travancore government.

Kottapuram, Cranganore fort - Fortaleza da São Tomé

North on the right bank of the river stood the more elaborate Cranganore fort, with extensive defenses. What remains today is a wall about 60-70 yards long, the ruins of a gateway, and remnants of a powder magazine. This was built by the Portuguese in 1523, when they initially aimed to make Cranganore the center of their power in Malabar. The fort now lies in ruins, but parts of the old wall and a few barracks are still visible. The Kottappuram Fort was also built around 1523 and occupied a strategic position at the mouth of the Periyar River. It played a key role in many wars between the Zamorin and the rulers of Kochi. The ruins reveal that the original fort was 18 feet thick and constructed of laterite. Located on the invasion route to Cochin from the North, it remained well manned during Portuguese times, with over 100 soldiers, mostly St. Thomas Christians, as noted by Portuguese writers.

The Portuguese, after establishing a strong presence in Cranganore, initially built a watchtower to prevent future incursions by the Zamorin and to stop the smuggling of pepper. This tower was later fortified with a surrounding wall, and both the tower and the powder magazines were enclosed by defenses made of earth and masonry. As the Portuguese settled and prospered, the old principality of Cranganore, with its historic temples and thriving colonies of Brahmins, Jews, and Muslims, experienced significant changes. A new town emerged near the fort, featuring grand churches and seminaries, warehouses, bungalows, and a population mainly consisting of Portuguese, Topasses, native Christians, low-caste Hindus, and slaves.

Both forts were sold to Travancore’s Dharma Raja in 1783 and became a major point of contention among the Dutch, Tipu Sultan, and the British. The Mysorean attacks that followed hastened the start of the Second Anglo-Mysore War, leading to Tipu's defeat and the transfer of Malabar to British control.

Located about a mile inland and stretching east was the Nedumkotta, or “the Travancore Lines," where Tipu Sultan achieved the final breach to advance toward Travancore. This is popularly known as the "Kottamuri." See the article Part 1 on the Travancore lines for more details.

The Kuriapilly fort

Kuriapilly was located opposite Pallipuram and very close to Pattanam. The fort seems to have been built by Travancore craftsmen (the Cranganore fort was likely unusable) during the strengthening and rebuilding of what we know as the Travancore lines. It was constructed of laterite, and from that, a mud wall 20 feet thick and 12 feet high was built over 30 miles to the east. This was the so-called Nedumcottah or Vittiacotta. During this period, Sneff, the Dutch commander, raised unnecessary objections, attacked the fort, and killed a Travancore captain in 1769, almost triggering a war between Travancore and the Dutch. The Cochin raja intervened and had Sneff apologize to Travancore.

Dutch period

When the Dutch attacked, approximately 100-150 Europeans and around 200 Nairs gathered at Palliport to defend it. However, they fled across the lake when they realized they were too weak. In later years, a leprosy hospital was built near the site.

In February 1661, Dutch Captain Vander Mcydon captured the Portuguese-held fortress of Pallipuram (Azhikotta), handed it over to the Zamorin, and returned to Colombo. Van Goens later landed a large force at Pallipuram and, assisted by the Zamorin and the Raja of Cranganore, laid siege to the Cranganore fort on January 3, 1662. He stationed

his men in three locations, blocking both land and river approaches, and bombarded the fort. The fort was defended by Portuguese Commander Urbano Fielho Feriera. Inside the fort were also Prince Goda Varma of Vettatt (1662—63) with 400 Nairs and the Paliath Achan. During the several days of bombardment, the Achan slipped out unnoticed and joined the Dutch, spying on their plans and revealing military secrets. Later, the Dutch stormed the fort and expelled the Portuguese. A fierce battle took place, and after suffering heavy losses, the fortress was surrendered to the Dutch. The Portuguese soldiers found there were sent back to Europe. The Dutch conquest of Cranganore marked the beginning of the decline of Portuguese power in Malabar.

The Dutch then established Fort Orange nearby. Since the Cochin fort was considered too unwieldy and large for effective defense, it was downsized to about one-third of its original size. General Hustaart recommended building a small Pentagon Fort, only one-third the size of the original. When completed by the Dutch, the fort was reinforced with seven strong bastions named after the seven United Provinces—Holland, Zealand, Utrecht, Friesland, and others. It could house about 4,000 soldiers during peacetime and up to 15,000 in wartime. However, Nieuhoff mentions that the city of Cochin was fortified with a high stone wall, 18-20 feet tall, and featured eight bastions. The most significant event of his reign was the surrender of Cochin Fort on January 7, 1663, and the installation of Vira Kerala Varma of the Mootha Thavazi branch as the ruler of Cochin.

Mysorean incursions

Haider had been eyeing these forts with the aim of securing flanking positions against Travancore, from both sea and land, with the ultimate goal of attacking and capturing Travancore. Sirdar Khan was the first to attack the fort in 1776 after Calicut collapsed, following Haider's demand for the Dutch to grant his troops free passage through Dutch territory to attack Travancore, which was refused on the grounds that Batavia had to approve it.

Thus, in October 1776, Sirdar Khan advanced southward while the Dutch Resident fled into the Cranganore fort, taking the VOC’s treasures with him. After repeated attempts, Sirdar Khan succeeded in capturing the Cranganore fort. However, he could not advance further because his march was blocked by the Travancore lines. Hyder, realizing that it was not a good strategy, apologized and blamed Sirdar Khan's overenthusiasm, and, acting against orders, understood that he should not have provoked the Dutch.

Years later, when Tipu was waiting to attack the fort, on the other side of the river, local legends say that “Our Lady” from the small church near Pallipuram came to the rescue—causing the river to swell dramatically, and a veil of snow to fall over the area, forcing Tipu to retreat. This miracle is attributed to Our Lady, who was thereafter known as ‘Our Lady of Snow’ or ‘Manjumatha’.

In 1789, Tipu summoned the Raja of Cochin to Palghat to discuss the purchase of two forts. However, the Raja excused himself due to ill health and avoided sending his second-in-command, which infuriated Tipu. Tipu then contacted the Dutch, but they negotiated and finalized the purchase of these forts with the Dharma Raja for Rs 3 Lacs (Surat). Tipu objected to the transaction and challenged its validity on the grounds that the lands where these forts were built were sovereign territory of his tributary, Cochin. He demanded the immediate withdrawal of Travancore troops from Cranganore, the demolition of the ‘Travancore Lines’—which stood mainly in Cochin territory—and the surrender of the Malabar chieftains who had taken refuge in Travancore. We also covered all this in another article.

Responses from Travancore, the Dutch, and the EIC did not satisfy Tipu, so he started moving his army against Travancore. An attack on the ‘Travancore Lines’ was launched on December 29, 1789, with 7,000 men, and a weak section near the hills was broken through. The Travancore troops fought back bravely and pushed the invaders away. During this campaign, the Sultan himself was disabled by a fall. Reinforcements arrived, and Tipu resumed the attack. On April 15, 1790, the Lines were finally broken, and the Travancore troops retreated. Within days, Tipu destroyed the Lines and moved to seize the forts of Cranganore, Azhikotta, and Kuriapally. However, the monsoon then set in, preventing further progress of Tipu’s forces. Meanwhile, the Governor-General, Lord Cornwallis, sent a British force under Colonel Hartley to support the Travancore army. He also began negotiations with the Nizam of Hyderabad and the Mahrattas for a joint attack on Seringapatam. Concerned by these developments, Tipu withdrew from the area. This marked the end of the Mysorean invasion of Kerala.

Francis Day who saw the Cranganore fort much later in the 1830’s stated poetically - Now it is a ruin, moldering in the dust, with but one solitary tower overhanging the broad expanse of the river, which rolls on slowly, but deeply, beneath. Its old moat is the resort of the crocodile and paddy bird, and its once well-used streets resound no more to human tread. The solitary stranger, perhaps, disturbs a snake in his path, or an owl in the dense overhanging trees, but rarely a mortal will meet his eye, Cranganore fort is utterly and entirely deserted.

When I went there last week, there were no tourists or history buffs, but it seems to be popular with young couples who wanted time away from prying eyes. I don’t think they cared a hoot about these times long gone, and stories long forgotten.

References

Portuguese trade with India in the sixteenth century - K.S. Mathew

Travancore Archeological Series Vol 1

Kerala district Gazetteers, Trichur and Ernakulam

British and native Cochin - Lawson, Charles Allen

Historic Alleys- Travancore lines, a Reality Check

Benny Kuriakose – The rebirth of the Kottapuram fort

The Spanish connections to India – Manila & Mangalore

History is full of surprises. It is stories like these that make the subject fascinating, especially since some are hidden deep in dusty books, prompting people like me to seek them out. This story features a remarkable Jewish merchant named Goldsmith and how he managed to broker a deal between the Spanish crown and the Mysore Sultan, Hyder Ali. It was an elaborate scheme involving a baby elephant, one that could have caused chaos in the already tense relationship between the British and the Mysore Kingdom, with the potential to alter the course of history. Let's go to the region and find out what happened.

There were hardly any trade links between Spain and India during medieval times, except for occasional illicit activities between the Spanish-controlled Philippines and Malabar during the Portuguese and Dutch eras, and, of course, some slave trading during the Dutch interregnum. However, the Spanish monarchs desired much from the Indies, including exotic animals and spices.

In the southern part of India, during the late 18th century, Hyder Ali was active after taking control of the Mysore Kingdom from the Wodeyars in 1761. Still, he faced challenges in maintaining his hold on the territory. He regularly fought the Marathas in the north, the British, and the Nizam of Hyderabad, as well as the Nawab of Carnatic in the east. Meanwhile, he managed to control the wealthy regions of Kanara, Konkan, Coorg, and Malabar, and concluded a tributary treaty with Cochin, which significantly bolstered his treasury. Ruling from his interior stronghold of Srirangapatnam (Seringapatam), Hyder established his main port at Mangalore (Jalalabad) and aimed to strengthen his navy, expand his armed forces, and modernize his weapons and troops by bringing in European officers and trainers. This story takes place in the 1770s–1780s, before the ailing sultan died in 1782.

But first, let us meet the main protagonist of the story: a Jewish merchant from Hamburg named Isaac Berend Goldschmidt (also known as Goldsmith). A very clever individual, he managed to survive and navigate in extremely tough conditions. He was one among the Jewish coterie we have encountered so far, such as Ezechiel Rahabi of Cochin and Isaac Surgun of Calicut, who were his contemporaries. According to his own account, he traveled to Malabar in 1756 as a merchant and later moved to England. After a short stay in London, he returned to India in 1764. He settled at Fort St. George, in 'Maduwara' (which, according to his notes, seems to have been the original name of Madras), where he traded in diamonds and coral. He met Haider during Haider's attack on Madras, provided him with inside information on Nawab Ali Mohammed's movements, and built a strong rapport, ultimately obtaining a large house, numerous privileges, and access to Hyder. However, he remained in Madras until 1770. It also appears that he advanced a large sum of money to Hyder. Furious with the British, who did not come to his aid when the Marathas attacked (he had signed a mutual defense treaty with them in 1769), Hyder grew strongly anti-British.

Since the number of foreign mercenaries and supplies obtained through the Dutch, Portuguese, and French was inadequate, Hyder looked for other European allies to provide him with material support, skilled officers to train his troops, technicians for the dockyards, and naval equipment to support his growing navy. Goldsmith seems to have convinced Hyder that he had the contacts to secure support from Europe, modernize his forces, and counter the British and Maratha armies.

Goldsmith's return to Europe in 1771, following the British falling out with Hyder, was to establish alliances with either Sweden, Denmark, Prussia, or Spain. He appears to have had some correspondence with Denmark and later traveled to Prussia, his homeland, where he stayed from 1771 to 1772. There, he tried to enlist the support of the Prussian crown (presenting Hyder’s letter praising German missionaries), but Friedrich II was busy with matters concerning Poland. In the end, he managed only to recruit a Prussian officer, Andre Hearton (Hardung), to be a fellow traveler and help execute his plans, which you will soon realize were quite fantastic!

Failing to persuade Denmark and Prussia, Spain became the next target for Goldsmith. The two Prussian representatives then visited the Spanish embassy in The Hague in August 1773, requesting safe passage to Madrid, and met with Viscount Herrera, the ambassador. Goldsmith introduced himself as the plenipotentiary envoy of Haidar Ali, the Mysore Sultan, and, along with Hearton, they aimed to meet the Spanish King and initiate a lucrative commercial treaty between Mysore and Spain that could lay the groundwork for a future "offensive and defensive alliance" between the two nations. Goldsmith offered the lure of a monopoly on duty-free merchandise, as well as a demand from Mysore for products Spain could supply, including military equipment and mercenary support.

Armed with a recommendation from Herrera, the two diplomats arrived in Madrid in December 1773 and met with the Spanish Secretary of State Grimaldi. Once again, Goldsmith presented his proposals, outlining the significant benefits Spain would gain, including duty-free trade and the free provision of materials for constructing forts and warehouses in any port or region of Mysore. He also emphasized that Hyder planned to procure Spanish goods worth between 150,000 and 200,000 pagodas annually.

After reviewing the documents provided by Goldsmith, Grimaldi met with King Charles III and received royal approval to proceed with testing the proposal. The Secretary of State then ordered the procurement and shipment of the specific goods requested by Hyder through Manila. The Governor-General of the Philippines, Simón de Anda y Salazar, was instructed to ensure the deal was executed smoothly, keeping the identities of Goldsmith and Hearton, as well as the cargo's destination, confidential. Goldsmith and Hearton were to be paid stipends and housed in Seville for about a year. The two guests appear to have spent a significant amount of time in Spain, subsequently spending nearly 9,000 reales de vellón on behalf of the Spanish crown. All this did not go unnoticed by the British; their spies in Spain reported Goldsmith's presence in Madrid, and an internal note stated that Goldsmith's nineteen-year-old son had recently arrived in Madras from Holland.

Interestingly, the King was more interested in something else from Malabar, and that seemed to be the primary focus. It was the acquisition of an elephant, a collection of coins, and other exotic objects for the Museum of Natural History, promoted by Prince Gabriel, his son!

In January 1775, the frigate Astrea departed for the Philippines, carrying 3,000 rifles, flintlocks, uniform cloth, and caps for Hyder's forces, along with 20,000 pounds of lead and 6,000 pounds of copper. After arriving in Manila in August, Goldsmith and Hearton met with Governor General Anda and Ramón Yssassi, his secretary, who also served as the interpreter. Goldsmith gave Anda a parchment, apparently written in Farsi and issued by Hyder, which would affirm his credentials. Although this appeared somewhat suspicious, an Armenian trader in Manila, who had previous trade relations with him, vouched for Goldsmith as a confidant of Hyder.

As part of the proposed treaty with Spain, Hyder (Goldsmith appears to have drafted it in line with some previous treaties executed by Hyder) stated that he would provide land, materials, and a location on a riverbank for building a Spanish fort and factories, along with free residence for Spanish subjects living and doing business there. Spain was to send personnel to train the Nawab's staff in military affairs and trade, including trading in materials listed and paid for in gold or silver, saltpeter, gemstones, spices, or other locally sourced items of interest. The mutual trade would be duty-free, and since Haider hadn't yet signed a treaty with any other European power, it would be very advantageous to Spain.

Accordingly, the material from Spain was to be shipped from Manila to Mangalore, accompanied by Goldsmith, Hearton, and a Spanish delegation. Goldsmith insisted that Yssassi accompany him as Commander-in-Chief and lead the delegation (Yssassi spoke French, which Hyder understood), which Anda agreed to after much reluctance. Goldsmith cleverly latched onto Yssassi, claiming that Yssassi had shown him around, introduced him to dignitaries, and lent him money to buy gifts for the Nawab and his wives, so he owed him a favor! Anyway, Anda finally agreed to release his secretary.

In January 1776, the ship La Deseada sailed for Mysore with Ramon Yssassi, the ship's commander and emissary of the Governor-General, Miguel Antonio Gómez, a military engineer familiar with the Malabar coast, along with other crew members, as well as Goldsmith and Hearton. They arrived at Mangalore on April 7, 1776.

Reception at Mangalore by Adm Angria

The boat was quickly unloaded, and the Mangalore governor, Cheg Ali, took delivery of the goods and various armaments. A British officer, Mor, arrived from Bombay and tried to threaten the Spaniards, but was rebuffed. The delegation was then formally welcomed by Hyder's admiral, Raghunath Angria. Goldsmith and Hearton retired to a large homestead. In May, the delegation received a formal summons from Hyder, and they proceeded to Gurpur with all the gifts, including four Arabian horses and chariots, which the Spanish monarch had gifted. By June, the emissaries, Yssassi, Teras (a warrant officer), and a few others traveled to Seringapatam with Hyder's cavalry. Antonio Gomez and the others remained in Mangalore.

Back in Mangalore, a bored Gomez watched life around him and recorded events and matters in his diary, also adding some sketches. He also noted troop and ship movements, as well as the various festivals and communities. Soon, they were running low on reserves and money and faced problems with a group member named Chrestien Fanleybe, who claimed to have loaned money to Goldsmith and demanded repayment. Goldsmith had told Fanleybe that he would be appointed as the Naval admiral of Mangalore!

In September, Gomez received news that Yssassi had died in Seringapatam from a fever. Suspecting foul play, Gomez hired a Turkish fakir to investigate for a fee. Although the fakir returned two months later, Gomez did not reveal his report; however, he mentioned a rumor that Goldsmith had poisoned Yssassi. It was also clear that the Spanish team had been confined in Seringapatam and not allowed to leave by Hyder, possibly because they hadn't offered enough bribes, and the gifts were not sufficient. Eventually, Teran, the warrant officer promoted to head of delegation after Yssassi's death, reported that pending matters were resolved and that they were returning with payment for the goods. Along with them, they brought a large elephant, which was Hyder's gift to the Spanish King, as well as coins and other items desired by Charles III for his son's museum.

However, it was not practical; the elephant was too large, and therefore, the Governor of Bednur Raja Ran (Rao) was ordered by Hyder to obtain another. As a result, a baby elephant was acquired and given to the Spanish delegation. Finally, the delegation was ready to sail back to Manila as soon as the weather permitted.

Now, whatever happened to Goldsmith and Hearton? Did they wash their hands of the Spanish delegation? It seems that Goldsmith, perhaps after Yssassi, fell ill, decided to take matters into his own hands, and claimed that the ship and the goods belonged to Hearton, the Prussian general. Yssassi managed to uncover this deception, and as a result, the pair lost favor with Hyder and fell into disgrace. Teran obtained authority from Yssassi just in time and managed to turn the situation around. At Mangalore, Gomez faced endless trouble from the defiant Chrestien Fanleybe, who continued to demand his money and threatened to report the matter to the Nawab. This furor was somehow suppressed, and Fanleybe was eventually silenced. As Goldsmith's deception began to unravel, Gomez also learned from others that from the moment the ship landed, Goldsmith had been claiming the vessel was Prussian and that all the Spaniards were actually Prussian officers.

Anyway, Goldsmith and Hearton were expelled from Seringapatam in February but managed to escape Hyder's wrath. They then traveled to Bednur, but Hearton died along the way. Goldsmith was again on the run after creditors in Bednur pursued him. Gomez reported that another Turk appeared at his door looking for Goldsmith and the money he had lent him, in exchange for being appointed as an interpreter. Finally, on March 25, 1777, the Spanish frigate set sail, and after an uneventful voyage, arrived at Subic Bay in the Philippines on June 23. Goldsmith, meanwhile, traveled across borders and ended up in Cannanore or Tellicherry.

Meanwhile, Anda had passed away, and Pedro Sarrio, who received the papers from Gomez and his team, submitted them to Spain with a recommendation to proceed with the trade agreement. The chief accountant recorded that the total expenses of the expedition to Mysore had reached at least 100,000 pesos.

Was Goldsmith really trying to pull off a major diplomatic scam? He attempted to pass off the delegation as German, took money from Fanleybe and the Turk, lied to everyone, and failed to warn the delegation on how to prepare for the meeting with Hyder. He also did not inform Yssassi and Hearton about the difficulty of the journey to Seringapatam through dense jungles. Interestingly, Cheg Ali, the governor of Mangalore, also died on the trek to meet Hyder, while Gomez was in Mangalore. Was he truly a fully authorized envoy appointed by Haidar Ali? Though that seems quite likely, the authenticity of the 'Moorish' documents was never confirmed. The reports from the Turkish fakir and the notes made by Teran have yet to be unearthed to clarify matters.

Again, we do not have Goldsmith's perspective since he left no accounts. He claims to have lent money to Hyder, which was never repaid; thus, he may have tried to recover his investment through this Spanish venture. Nevertheless, he was alive until 1784, converted to Christianity and reappeared at the EIC factory in Tellicherry under the new name John Baerindson, providing intelligence on Tipu's (Hyder died in 1782) planned expedition to Malabar. 

Thus, Spain's commercial venture in India ended not with profits but with disappointment and significant losses. A draft treaty and a baby elephant remained, along with a 138-page diary of his days at Mangalore written by Gomez, complete with four sketches.

Would a trade pact with Spain truly have helped Hyder? Probably not, since the Second Anglo-Mysore War took place in 1778, and additionally, with France, Spain, and the Dutch supporting American independence, an enraged Britain might have turned their focus to Manila.

Now we come to the baby elephant. As had been the case, the monarchs in Spain, Portugal, France, Italy, the Vatican, Constantinople, and other European countries were eager to acquire and showcase exotic animals, such as elephants and rhinos. Charles III also wanted a few for his menagerie. As it happened, he ended up acquiring two more from South India through Governor Anda in the Philippines, while the Goldsmith affair was unfolding in Mangalore. The first was a gift from the Nawab of Carnatic, Mohammed Ali Khan Wallaja, in 1773, who was also trying to establish new alliances after a tough period with the British. The second was also obtained from the Carnatic in 1777 after the death of the first, but it only survived in Madrid for a few months. The King, grateful for these gifts, awarded Simon de Anda the right to display an elephant on his coat of arms. Three Malabar Christians (former British soldiers from Manila) were brought in to care for these elephants.

The third import was received through a royal request made through Goldsmith to Hyder Ali, and it was the elephant gifted by the Governor of Bednur in 1777, brought by Gomez to Manila. The five-year-old's name is recorded as Sundapari (I believe it was actually Sundari, meaning "pretty").

Problems began when Gomez arrived and discovered that Gov Anda was no longer alive. He handed over the elephant to Juan Francisco, Anda's nephew and estate executor, who, however, had no idea how to pay the bills for the elephant's care since the ship headed for Spain had already left. The new Governor General, Pedro Sarrio, did not plan to pay for it, as there was no official document from the King ordering the purchase of the pachyderm. Juan couldn't let the animal die, and soon, the arguments and correspondence turned scandalous. News reached Tomas, Anda's son, who was in Madrid, and he contacted the Secretary of India, Jose de Galvez, saying that Gov. Anda had planned to gift the animal to the King, and that the Manila bureaucracy was creating unnecessary obstacles. The news eventually reached the King, who ordered that all expenses be paid. Juan, after finally convincing Spain to pay for the elephant's transportation, personally took Sundapari to Cádiz in 1779. 

As a result, a larger Sundapari arrived in Cádiz by the end of 1779, to be ceremonially housed at the Aranjuez stables. She was housed in the gardens of Aranjuez Palace in a new set of rooms. Sadly, she suffered from various ailments and died in September 1780. That marked the end of the Goldsmith caper.

The money spent on the elephant adventure was probably about half a million Reales—a small fortune. Further information on the continuing adventures of Isaac Goldsmith (or John Baerindson), the one time trader and Hyder's diplomat, isn't available in any of the old historic archives.

References

Haidar Alí: un intento frustrado de relación comercial entre Mysore y Filipinas, 1773-1779 - Salvador P. Escoto

A Spaniard's diary of Mangalore, 1776-1777 - Salvador P. Escoto

Treasures fit for a king - King Charles III of Spain's Indian elephants Carlos Gómez-Centurión

The Elephant in the Archive: Knowledge Construction and Late Eighteenth-Century Global Diplomacy - Birgit Tremml-Werner

Pictures & other documents referred – courtesy ARCHIVO GENERAL DE INDIAS (SEVILLA, ESPAÑA).

Note: This article is based on the original archival research conducted by the eminent (late) Prof. Salvador P. Escoto and the work of the (late) Prof. Carlos Gómez-Centurión. My humble thanks to these great stalwarts.

Marthanda Varma, Dharma Raja, the Madura Nayaks, and the Arcot Nawabs.

There are only a few papers and articles specifically about the incursions of the Madura Nayaks and Arcot Nawabs into the southern districts of old Travancore, and the motives and timelines are not very clear. I will try to fill in some gaps and provide a brief overview of the events leading to the incursions and their aftermath. The fact is that even Marthanda Varma, supported by a powerful, trained army, was always troubled by these incursions and never emerged victorious. A main reason is that these invading armies were almost always undisciplined and did not follow the traditional rules of war set by the Malayala kings. These marauding ‘Pattani’ armies usually pillaged and burned their way through until they achieved their goals.

Hanuman and the Pallimaradi

A timely question from my friend Nikhil about the Zamorin’s flag prompted me to revisit this study. Recently, an image of a flag appeared online, featuring a design with crossed swords, a conch, and a lamp, which claimed to be the Zamorin’s flag. I am not convinced, as I haven't seen such an image or description in any Zamorin-related documents I have studied so far. In fact, the only mention is that Udhhanda’s poem on Calicut’s Manvikrama referenced a tiger (sardula) symbol in this context, although some argue it was a misinterpretation of the poem, written shortly after leaving the Chola country (It is well known that the tiger was a Chola flag symbol). Anyway, let’s explore the topic a bit and see where it leads us.

Marakkars, Paravas, Portuguese, and the Zamorin…

It was, in retrospect, a decisive battle and one that signaled some amount of success for the Portuguese. Suppose the Marakkars had continued, reached Diu, and eventually joined up with the incoming Ottoman fleet. In that case, the Portuguese might have been taken out of the equation just 40 years after they arrived in Western India. But as we saw in a previous article, the Marakkars never reached Diu, and the Turkish Captain Hadim Suleiman slunk away with his fleet. I had promised to get to this part of the story, so here goes.

Roman Coin find 1847, Kizhur - Cannanore

Calicut faced nervous days in 1847, as a great storm hit the Laccadives and the mainland. Logan mentioned it in his manual and CHF had written about it. The storm waves dashed on the coast in a very unexpected manner and its effects were felt from Cannanore to Chetwai. The wave destroyed the Cannanore Custom house, it came in so suddenly that the officials had hardly time to escape by the rear as the sea swept in at the front. It was also the year when Richard Burton visited and wrote about the town, the year when a lighthouse was constructed on the Calicut beach, and also the year when the collector HV Conolly had all the shops of the big bazaar tiled. But unrelated to this, the period witnessed a major discovery near Cannanore which kept many a goldsmith near Calicut’s Big Bazar, busy.

 

Interview with Jimmy at Dream Malayalam...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2IHzrDqGN4

Please watch, comment and share! 

Part 2 Below

https://youtu.be/IFp-R83nXsA

Rajarshi Rama Varma’s final abode

First, let us get an insight into the illustrious raja. HH Maharaja Sri Sir RAMAVARMA XV ruled over Cochin 1895-1914, Maharaja [cr.1921], G.C.I.E., G.C.S.I., K.C.S.I., born 27^th December 1852, passed away in 1932 at Trichur. It is said that he ruled Cochin during crucial times and was not only a legendary figure but also one of the greatest rulers of modern times. An erudite scholar in Sanskrit and English and was considered - A scholar among princes and a prince among scholars. This Raja brought permanent reforms to the Department of Revenue and Accounts. The Village Panchayat Bill was a valiant attempt to get the people at the grassroots involved in administration. The Tenancy Act was a personal triumph of Rajarshi. But after all these decorations and successes, he abdicated his throne in1914. There are many reasons attributed to his abdication. One of the very talked about version is that he had differences with British Empire because of his proximity with Germans. There is also another version in his biography that says he resigned due to ill health. Some mentions can be found about his disputes with the British Resident at Madras and the Resident’s high-handed attitude and treatment of the monarch. He died in January 1932 and is also known as Ozinja Vallia Thampuran (Note that the king is typically mentioned in contemporary times as Kochi Valiya Thampuran, not as Kochi Rajavu as we know today).

The Kamal, or the Rapalagai

Curiosity, adventure, and profits were always the lure for exploration. While travel across land masses was recorded from the oldest times, sailing the seas proved to be less costly and usually faster. However, it was virtually impossible to shelter in place when the weather turned foul, and shipwrecks and losses continued to grow. Nevertheless, human enterprise, inventions, and refinements with aids to assist navigation across vast stretches of sea or ocean allowed sailors to discover lands and conduct trade with faraway shores.  The spice trade became a prime motivation for medieval sailing and proved to be very profitable over time.

Ummini Thampi’s (Marthandam Thampi Iravi, Womana Tomby) overtures against the British.

I wrote about the Munro years in Travancore in 2017, and introduced to readers a fascinating character named Ummini Thampi – Well, I mentioned therein that he was an intriguer in Travancore, the cause of so many misfortunes and deaths and was involved in what was known as the 1812 Quilon plot or the Quilon revolt. How this Dewan, who was squarely on the British side, changed sides and went against them is the thread of the plot, leaving behind questions on whether he was a patriot or schemer.

And it's Cannanore connection!!

Many articles have been written about Higginbotham’s in the past and the consensus is that the founder and original owner was Abel Joshua Higginbotham. This has been documented so by the chronicler of Madras, the venerable S Muthiah, in his Madras books, as well as other authors who wrote specifically about the bookshop and its run through the ages. During my stay in Madras, in the 80’s it was a favorite haunt, just a quick trot from Ambika Nivas on Pycroft’s road to the Higginbotham’s building. I spent many an enchanted hour among the thousands of lined-up books, taking in those titles and smells. But more than that, it was omnipresent at all major railway stations and had been the source of ‘pocketbooks’ as they were called, those by James Hadley Chase, Perry Mason (ES Gardener), Nick Carter, Sudden, Louise L Armor, and so on, during school days.

 Taking charge at Kallayi…

It has been said that in the distant past, a new Zamorin taking charge of his kingdom would make a ceremonial procession from one of his residential kovilakoms (usually at Ponnani) to Calicut, stooping at Kallayi. At Kallayi, he would receive a betel nut wrapped in a betel leaf from a Moplah woman or a Moplah boy dressed as a woman, as part of an elaborate reception ceremony. Many writers who alluded to this as well as the ceremonial presence of Moplah chiefs at the Mamankam in Tirunavaya, cited these as an example of the religious harmony which existed in Calicut at that time.